Trabzon-Rize Gourmet Guide

May Tea, often referred to as the "Month of Flowers," is cherished by nature enthusiasts, tea lovers, and the devoted hands of tea-picking aunties. This unique harvest reflects the renewal and vibrancy of spring.

Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı

Pilav is a dish that is perhaps as commonly made and consumed in Trabzon and Rize as muhlama and karalahana. When combined with butter from the high plateaus, rice creates a delicious flavor. Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı is a family-run business that has been maintaining the same quality of taste for 150 years, passing it down through generations. The addition of bone broth is another ingredient that enhances the pilav's flavor, according to the experts. Their dry beans and roast are also excellent. I strongly recommend visiting Kalkanoğlu, a lovely and charming place, to anyone traveling to the Eastern Black Sea. But don't be too late, as finishing the pilav means the place is closing down.

Rüştü’s Bakery

This beautiful bakery invites you inside with its authentic stone building and the delightful smells of freshly baked bread and pide. Located in the same neighborhood as Kalkanoğlu Pilavcısı, the two places are neighbors. Over the years, who knows how many bakers have worked at that counter, making breads and pides? The wonderful aromas from the stone oven might test your patience while waiting for your pide. Like many places in the Black Sea, everything here is generously oily, but it never feels overwhelming. With the high-quality ingredients and the exceptional taste from the bakers, Rüştü’s Bakery is one of my favorite places. Be sure to go, see, chat, and enjoy their flavors.

Rize Liman Lokantası

Since my childhood, whenever we traveled from Istanbul to my hometown, Rize, we always stopped by Liman Lokantası. Everyone knows and recommends Liman Lokantası, and I’ve never heard a negative opinion about any of its dishes. From its delicious dry beans to its tasty döner and the morning kavurma that begins preparation early, everything is flawless. They cook their meals on a huge stove over wood fire. Even if you go just to see this stove, it’s worth the visit. And of course, like most of the restaurants on this list, Liman Lokantası has an excellent sütlaç (rice pudding). Anyone passing through Rize should head straight to Liman, without hesitation.

Çayeli Lale Lokantası

Lale Lokantası, which operates almost identically to Liman Lokantası, serves equally delicious and high-quality products with the same level of care. The restaurant claims to be world-renowned for its dry beans, but my favorite dish is pilav with döner, followed by their famous atom sütlaç. Located close to the central district, it’s easy to find and doesn’t take much time to visit. It’s a great stop on your itinerary.

Mora Restaurant

Located at the 3rd kilometer of the Fırtına Stream and Fırtına Valley, Mora is definitely a place worth visiting. Set in a large tea plantation and garden, Mora receives fresh vegetables and fruits directly from its own fields. Every ingredient used is sourced from their own farm, whether from Mora itself or the surrounding highlands. Their breakfast is extraordinary, with kiwis, iron apple jam, muhlama, and clotted cream that could easily become a habit. The local pot dishes are among the best in the valley. Mora is one of my favorite spots in the Fırtına Valley. Whether for breakfast, a meal, or just to relax and have a coffee, it’s the perfect place. Don’t forget to pet Moni, the dog who thinks it's a human.

Lazika

Lazika is also located at the 3rd kilometer of Fırtına Stream, just like Mora. You can visit Lazika to enjoy its fantastic teas. Our faces are always smiling, and our tea is always delightful. We look forward to seeing you.

Zua Coffee (Şenyuva Village)

Located in the former Chinçiva village, Zua is a third-wave coffee shop, but calling them just a coffee shop doesn’t do them justice. They make fantastic gum meringue, Elderflower Soda (Pohpedi), and Chocolate Tart using wild fruits collected from the Kaçkar Mountains. Zua has even made it to the list of well-known food critic Vedat Milor, earning a great rating. The owners, Elif and Apo, are also dear friends of mine and wonderful people. This year, Zua offers even more varieties of desserts made by Emel Bahçıvan and Yasemin Taşkın. I highly recommend it to anyone passing through Çamlıhemşin.

Çat Valley Trout Farm

I wanted to take you to a higher part of the Kaçkar Mountains. In the Çat Valley trout farm, you might not have the chance to eat, but you can buy their fantastic fish and cook a delicious meal yourself. In addition to trout, you can also find "Mountain Alasi" made from eggs taken from the streams of Haçivanak Plateau, one of the most beautiful plateaus in Kaçkar. If you meet the owner Tezcan Biber, you can enjoy a nice conversation and learn everything you need to know about the valley.